Latest insights on photo metadata optimization, local search marketing, and image SEO.

How to geotag a photo on iPhone depends on the file format more than anything else. iPhones save photos as HEIC by default, and our editor accepts JPEG, PNG and WebP, so a HEIC file is refused before it uploads. Switch the camera to Most Compatible for new shots, or let iOS convert an older photo on its way out by sharing it. Then put the JPEG on a map and the coordinates are written into the file itself. Why your iPhone photo gets refused An iPhone 7 or later saves photos by default in HEIF, the format behind the .heic extension, rather than JPEG. It is a genuine improvement on storage, and it is also why your camera roll is full of files that a lot of photo tools have never been able to open. Ours is one of them. The editor takes JPEG, PNG and WebP. Hand it a .heic file and you get "Unsupported file type. Please upload JPEG, PNG, WEBP images only." What actually reaches the editor depends on how you move the photo there, and some transfer routes quietly convert along the way. The habit that saves time is to convert to JPEG deliberately rather than hope something in the chain does it for you. The format rule is on the upload panel itself, before you pick a file. Getting a JPEG out of your iPhone There are two routes, and which you need depends on whether the photo exists yet. For photos you have not taken yet. Apple's instruction is "Open Settings, then tap Camera. Tap Formats, then tap Most Compatible." After that, per Apple's HEIF and HEVC page, "All new photos and videos will now use JPEG or H.264 format." It changes nothing about the photos already on the phone. If you want the storage saving back later, the same page says to choose High Efficiency. For photos already on the phone. Send the photo to yourself. Apple notes that when you share by AirDrop, Messages or email and the receiving device does not support the newer formats, "the media might automatically be shared in a more compatible format, such as JPEG or H.264." Emailing a photo to your own address is the least fiddly version of this, and what arrives is usually a JPEG you can work with. Watch for one trap here. Converting on the way out gives you a copy, so the HEIC original stays in your library untagged. Keep track of which file you actually edited, or you will geotag the copy and publish the original. Turn on location before you shoot A photo taken with location switched off cannot have coordinates recovered from the phone later. The camera did not record them, and nothing in iOS invents them afterwards. That is why this setting is worth fixing now even if you came here about old photos. The path is Settings, then Privacy & Security, then Location Services, then Camera. Apple's Location Services page lists the four choices an app can have: Never, Ask Next Time Or When I Share, While Using the App, and Always. The camera needs While Using the App. Never is the setting Apple's own privacy guidance tells you to pick if you want the opposite, and it is a common reason a camera that used to tag photos quietly stopped. To take a location off a photo you already have, Apple's privacy guide gives the sequence: open the photo, tap the More button, tap Adjust Location, then tap No Location. How to geotag a photo on iPhone in your browser Once you are holding a JPEG, the rest takes about a minute. You can write the GPS tags into the JPEG without installing anything. Export or convert the photo to JPEG using one of the two routes above. Open the editor and drop the JPEG onto the upload panel. Search for the place by name, or drag the pin on the map. Read the coordinate pair under the map and confirm it is the right spot. Fill in a description and keywords if you want those in the file too. Download the edited photo and use that copy from now on. Searching by name is usually faster than dragging, and it matters more than it sounds: a pin dropped by eye on a zoomed-out map can sit a few streets from where you meant, and nothing later in the process will catch that for you. Check the coordinates really landed in the file Reopening the photo in the Photos app is not a check. That reads Apple's own library, which can show a location the file does not contain. Read the file instead. Here is what is actually stored. EXIF does not keep a signed decimal like 40.7447. It breaks the number into degrees, minutes and seconds, and it keeps that as a positive value. The hemisphere lives in a separate one-letter tag called GPSLatitudeRef, which holds N or S, with GPSLongitudeRef holding E or W for the other axis. So a latitude of 40.7447 becomes 40 degrees, 44 minutes, 40.92 seconds, plus the letter N. That split is the most common way a geotag ends up plainly wrong. Write the degrees but lose the letter and the photo claims the mirror-image hemisphere, which is how a New York photo turns up in the southern Atlantic. Both halves have to be present. The same coordinate read back out of the file, degrees and hemisphere letter both present. To confirm your own photo, read the location block back out of the file and look for those four entries. If the GPS section is empty, the location is not in the photo, whatever your phone shows you. For the version that is not specific to Apple hardware, there is the general four-step version, and what a geotag actually is if the tags themselves are new to you. On the other side of the fence, the Android settings are named differently depending on who made the phone.

How to geotag photos on Android starts with a setting whose name changes depending on who made your phone. Samsung calls it Location tags. Google calls it Save location. OnePlus calls it Store location data. Turn the right one on and new photos carry coordinates from the moment you press the shutter. Photos you have already taken need the location written in afterwards, because nothing on the phone can recover a coordinate the camera never recorded. The setting has a different name on every Android phone This is the reason most guides fail you. They tell you to look for "Location tags" and you own a Pixel, which has no such thing. Google publishes the per-manufacturer list on its own help page, and it is short enough to reproduce. What the camera location setting is called, by manufacturer PhoneWhat to look for in camera settings Google PixelSave location Samsung GalaxyLocation tags MotorolaSave location OnePlusStore location data XiaomiSave location info All five live in the camera app's own settings rather than in the phone's main Settings app, which is the second thing that trips people up. On a Pixel, Google's camera help puts Save location under Settings, then More settings. On a Galaxy, Samsung's instructions are to open the Camera app, tap the gear icon inside it, and toggle Location tags on. Samsung adds a prerequisite worth checking first: location has to be enabled for the phone as a whole, under Settings, then Location. The full list of labels is on Google's camera location settings page if your make is not above. Why the toggle is on and photos still have no location A camera app can only record a coordinate the system agrees to give it, so the toggle is the last of three gates rather than the only one. The phone's location has to be on, the camera app needs permission, and the in-camera setting has to be enabled. The permission is the one people miss. Touch and hold the camera app's icon, tap App info, then Permissions, then Location. Android's permissions documentation gives four choices: Allow all the time, Allow only while using the app, Ask every time or allow when I share, and Don't allow. Pick "Allow only while using the app". The one to avoid is "Ask every time or allow when I share", which does what it says and prompts on each launch. Dismiss that prompt once while you are busy shooting and the photos from that session have no coordinates in them, with nothing on screen to tell you so. What Google Photos will and will not change Google Photos looks like the obvious place to fix a photo that missed its location, and for one specific job it is. Its limits are documented and they are stricter than most articles admit. Google's own help page states the rule in three parts. You have to back the photo up first. Then, "You can only change or remove estimated locations and locations that you manually added to your photos." And the part that decides whether this route is any use to you: "If a location was automatically added by your camera, you can't update or remove the location in Google Photos." So a wrong coordinate written by your camera cannot be corrected there. Not by you, not ever, inside that app. There is a second limit that matters more for anyone publishing the photo. Google's page notes that when the image goes anywhere outside Google Photos, by email for instance, "the original location your device saved shows without any edits you made in Google Photos." The edit lives in the library, not in the file. Upload that photo to your own website and whatever you corrected is simply not there. How to geotag photos on Android after they are taken For a photo that already exists, the reliable move is to change the file rather than a gallery's record of it. You can write the coordinates into the file in a browser, on the phone or on a desktop. Copy the photos off the phone, or open the editor on the phone itself. Drop the JPEG, PNG or WebP files onto the upload panel. Search for the place by name instead of dragging the pin by eye. Check the coordinate pair shown under the map before moving on. Add a description and keywords if you want those stored too. Download the edited copies and publish those, not the originals. Searching by name avoids the few-streets-off error that dragging a pin invites. Check the location is in the file, not only in the app Your gallery app is not a reliable witness here, as the Google Photos case shows. Read the file. EXIF does not store a coordinate the way your maps app displays it. A latitude of 40.7447 is not kept as that decimal. It is split into degrees, minutes and seconds and stored as a positive number, 40 degrees, 44 minutes and 40.92 seconds, with the hemisphere held separately in a one-letter tag called GPSLatitudeRef containing N or S. Longitude works the same way, with GPSLongitudeRef holding E or W. Both halves have to survive. A file with the right degrees and a missing hemisphere letter reads as valid and places the photo in the mirror-image hemisphere, which is how a photo taken in Cape Town ends up somewhere in the Mediterranean. Degrees and hemisphere letter, both present, read straight from the file. To check your own, open the photo and read its location block. An empty GPS section means the coordinate is not in the photo, whatever your gallery displays next to it. If you want the version that is not tied to Android, there is the general four-step version, and you can also pull the GPS values out of a photo you already have. If you also shoot on Apple hardware, an iPhone has a different problem entirely, and it is a file format problem rather than a settings one.

EXIF vs IPTC vs XMP comes down to two questions: who wrote the data, and who reads it back. EXIF is written by your camera and describes the act of taking the photo. IPTC is written by a person and describes the picture itself, including who owns it. XMP is the container modern software uses to carry it. The consequence matters more than the definitions. Google reads IPTC and does not use EXIF. If you have been filling in the description and copyright boxes your photo software offers, there is a fair chance Google has never seen it. EXIF vs IPTC vs XMP at a glance The three are usually presented as rivals. They are closer to three layers that arrived at different times, for different reasons, and are read by different software. The three standards, by purpose and audience StandardWhat it is forWho writes itWho reads it back EXIF The act of capture: shutter, lens, time, GPS position Your camera or phone, automatically Photo apps, map tools, editing software. Not Google Search. IPTC Describing the picture in words and stating who owns it A person, after the shot Picture desks, stock libraries, and Google Images XMP Carrying descriptive metadata in an extensible format Editing software, and the current IPTC standard Professional photo software, and Google where it carries IPTC One correction, because it causes most of the confusion. XMP is not a rival vocabulary to IPTC. It is a format, and the current IPTC standard is written in it. Asking whether to use IPTC or XMP is like asking whether to write in English or in ink. You can check which blocks your own photo carries in a few seconds. Why a photo carries three metadata blocks instead of one Three standards exist because three industries needed different things, roughly a decade apart, and none could retire the previous answer. EXIF came from the camera makers. Exchangeable Image File Format is maintained by CIPA, the Camera & Imaging Products Association, and is now at Exif 3.1. Its job is to let a camera record itself: exposure, focal length, timestamp, GPS position. Nothing in EXIF was designed for a human to type. IPTC came from the news business. The International Press Telecommunications Council needed wire photos to carry a caption, a photographer, a credit and a rights statement, because a picture landing on a subeditor's desk without them is unusable. The standard reached version 2025.1 in November 2025 and added four properties for AI-generated content, so it is live rather than legacy. XMP came from Adobe. ExifTool describes the Extensible Metadata Platform as "an XML/RDF-based metadata format which is being pushed by Adobe". Adobe built it in 2002 and it is now maintained as ISO 16684. It stores everything as character strings and groups fields into namespaces, which makes it extensible where EXIF is fixed. ExifTool calls the older binary IPTC block "an older meta information format, slowly being phased out in favor of XMP". The newer IPTC Core specification uses XMP format, so the direction of travel is settled: IPTC vocabulary, XMP container. Google reads IPTC and ignores EXIF This is the fact that makes the comparison worth caring about, and it comes from Google. Asked in the January 2023 Search Office Hours how important EXIF data is for a site where images matter, Gary Illyes answered: "Google doesn't use EXIF data for anything at the moment. The only image data, or metadata, that we currently use is IPTC." Google Search Office Hours, January 2023 Google's image licence documentation says the same from the other direction. It tells you to embed IPTC photo metadata inside the image, and names the fields it extracts: Copyright Notice, Creator, Credit Line, Web Statement of Rights, Licensor URL and Digital Source Type. EXIF is not mentioned on that page. A real file with every description in the wrong block Here is how that plays out on a real photo, carefully filled in: a description, a title, a keyword list, a named artist and a copyright line. Twenty-eight fields read back from one file. Every one is EXIF. Every field in that list is an EXIF tag. ImageDescription, Artist and Copyright belong to the EXIF specification, and XPTitle and XPKeywords are what Windows Explorer writes when you type into the Title and Tags boxes of a file's properties dialog. That is the trap: Windows, and plenty of consumer photo software, puts descriptive text into EXIF because that is the block those tools have always used. Description, title and keywords, all in the block Google does not read. So the photographer's name, the copyright line and the keywords are all on the file, and none is in IPTC. A picture desk looking for a credit finds nothing, and Google uses none of it. Two rights fields on the file, neither in the standard Google extracts. Which of the three you actually need You rarely choose. Your camera writes EXIF whether you ask it or not, so the question is which of the other two you add. Work backwards from who you need to reach. Location on the file. EXIF, with no alternative. GPS coordinates live in the EXIF block and nothing in IPTC replaces them. Credit and copyright that survive the image being passed around. IPTC, written in XMP. This is where the wrong block costs you something real. A caption or keywords that software can search. IPTC again. Keywords typed into the Windows properties dialog land in EXIF and stay there. Place names in words rather than coordinates. IPTC, which has dedicated city, sub-location and country fields. If your descriptive fields turned out to be in EXIF, write the same values into the IPTC fields so the ones Google extracts are filled. Which tags are safe to change, field by field, is covered in our guide to the photo metadata tags you can edit. What happens when the file leaves your computer All three blocks live inside the file, so they last exactly as long as the file does. IPTC's Spring 2019 test of about a dozen sites found Flickr, Dropbox, OneDrive and Google Photos passed original files through intact, while Facebook, Twitter, Pexels, Pixabay and Unsplash stripped metadata from downloaded files. So treat embedded metadata as durable for your own archive and for anything you deliver as a file, and as optional once the photo goes through a platform. If a coordinate is something you would rather not publish, strip the location before you upload rather than trusting the platform to do it.

Does WhatsApp remove location from photos? Yes: when you send one the ordinary way, the coordinates do not arrive with it. Send the identical file as a document instead and the location travels intact, along with the timestamp, the camera model and everything else the file was carrying. The whole answer turns on a menu choice most people make without thinking about it, and the difference is not subtle: one path delivers a stripped file, the other delivers your address. The rest of this sets out what the evidence actually supports and, just as important on this topic, what it does not. Does WhatsApp remove location from photos in a normal send? The best available evidence is a study published in June 2025 in Perspectives in Legal and Forensic Sciences, which pushed the same images through a range of transfer methods and compared what survived. It tested six categories of embedded data: timestamp, geolocation, device make and model, resolution, editing software, and the embedded thumbnail. For a photo sent through WhatsApp in the normal image mode, five of those six were gone. Geolocation, timestamp, device make and model, editing software and thumbnail were all removed; only the resolution survived. The study's own summary puts it plainly: chat and image-based transfers "effectively remove metadata, changing the file integrity". One qualification you should have. This is a single study by a single author in a young journal, analysed with a named set of forensic tools on Android and iOS handsets. It is dated, methodical and checkable, which already puts it far ahead of everything else written on this question, but it is one study, not a settled consensus, and it is attributed here rather than presented as bare fact. Which is the argument for checking it yourself. Send one geotagged photo to a second device, then open the file that arrives and see which fields are left. That takes two minutes and settles the question for your handset and your app version, which no article can do on your behalf. Sending the same photo as a document changes everything The same study found that sending a photo as a document preserved all six categories. Nothing was stripped. The file arrives at the other end byte-for-byte as it left, coordinates included. This is the finding worth carrying around, because the document route is the one people reach for when they care about quality. Photographers send work as documents to avoid compression, estate agents to keep listing photos sharp, and anyone attaching evidence to a claim so the file is not altered in transit. Every one of them is also, without being told, sending the exact location where the photo was taken. Everything a document-mode send delivers along with the picture. If you want to know what that file is handing over, read the photo's metadata in your browser before you attach it. The viewer processes the image locally rather than uploading it, which is the behaviour you want when the thing you are inspecting is your own address. What WhatsApp itself has published about this Nothing. That is not a figure of speech. Searching WhatsApp's own help centre for "EXIF" this session returned no results at all. A search for "metadata" returned four articles, all about suspended groups and communities or a browser extension, and none about photographs. The company's page on HD photo quality describes only the choice between standard and HD, with no mention of metadata, EXIF, compression or re-encoding anywhere in it. So every confident claim you will read about WhatsApp and EXIF, including this one, rests on somebody testing it from the outside. WhatsApp has never committed to this behaviour in writing, which means it can change in any release without an announcement, and no article can honestly promise otherwise. Does HD quality change the answer? We could not verify this, so we are not going to tell you. Several pages ranking for this question state confidently that HD mode behaves differently, some attaching precise-sounding percentages to it. None of them cites a test you can inspect, several contradict each other outright, and every one of them is published by a company selling a metadata-removal tool. WhatsApp, as above, documents nothing. The June 2025 study does not test an HD path. An unsourced number is not improved by being repeated, so the honest position is that the HD question is open. If it matters to you, send yourself an HD photo and inspect what arrives. One test on your own handset beats every unverifiable percentage written on this subject. Why "it gets compressed" is the wrong explanation The usual explanation is that WhatsApp shrinks the image and the metadata goes with it. Compression is the moment the data is lost, but it is not the reason, and the difference matters because it predicts the wrong behaviour elsewhere. A 2023 study that ran 2,475 before-and-after image pairs through the major platforms found Google Photos kept all EXIF data intact, and Flickr kept it intact for JPEG uploads. Both re-compress what you upload. In the same tests Facebook removed every EXIF field except two, Artist and Copyright, which a blind re-encode could not possibly do selectively. What happens to your metadata is a policy each platform chooses, not a mechanical side effect. Which is why "upload it somewhere and the location will be stripped for you" is not a privacy strategy. Older platform behaviour is a poor guide too: the IPTC's last published round of social-media metadata tests, in 2019, is now seven years old and predates most of the apps people ask about. What this means if you geotag photos for work Here is the case nobody writing about WhatsApp seems to have considered. Think of a property listing, a completed job, or an inspection record. Each is a photo whose coordinates were added deliberately after capture, and it carries those coordinates in exactly the same tags a phone camera would have used. A normal WhatsApp send destroys them just as thoroughly. So if you geotag images for a client and deliver them over a chat app, you are shipping stripped files and the work is silently undone. Deliver as a document, or over email or a file link, and check one file at the far end before you invoice. The reverse case is the more common one. If photos have already arrived stripped and they need their location back, you can write the coordinates into the file again. To see which fields survived the trip and which did not, extracting the geotag from a photo covers how to read them, and the reference of tags you can edit lists everything else a photo was carrying before it went through the compressor.

What is geotagging? It is the process of storing a geographic location inside a file. For a photo, that location is written into the image's own metadata, the EXIF block that already carries the shutter speed, the lens and the timestamp, as a set of GPS tags. The coordinates travel inside the JPEG itself, so a geotagged photo answers the question "where was this taken?" without a caption, a folder name or a database. What is geotagging writing into a photo, exactly Most explanations stop at "it adds GPS data." The names are worth knowing, because they are what you see listed when you open a photo in any tool that reads metadata. Spotting which one is missing is usually the difference between a location that works and one that does not. What a geotagged photo stores, and why each part matters What it recordsCalledWhy you would care How far north or south GPSLatitude The first half of the pin on the map. Which side of the equator GPSLatitudeRef A single letter, N or S. The number above is always positive, so this letter is the only thing telling London apart from a point the same distance below the equator. How far east or west GPSLongitude The other half of the pin. Which side of Greenwich GPSLongitudeRef E or W. Lose this one letter and your photo relocates to the opposite side of the world. It is the most common way a geotag ends up plainly wrong. Height, and whether it is above or below sea level GPSAltitude and GPSAltitudeRef The height is stored as a plain positive number, so the second flag is all that separates a rooftop from a basement. Which way the camera was facing GPSImgDirection Where the lens was pointing, not where the photographer stood. It is what distinguishes a photo of a shopfront from one taken inside it. The pattern worth taking away: the coordinates are always stored as positive numbers, and a separate one-letter tag carries the direction. That split is the source of most broken geotags, and it is the subject of the next section. The full technical list, if you ever need it, is in the ExifTool GPS tag reference. A real coordinate, written out Here is where the Ref tags earn their place. Take the prime meridian marker at the Royal Observatory in Greenwich, which sits at roughly 51.477928, -0.001545 in the decimal form every mapping app shows you. Your photo does not store it that way. It breaks the number into degrees, minutes and seconds, the old navigator's format still used on charts, and it never keeps the minus sign. The latitude converts like this: 51.477928° → whole degrees: 51 0.477928 × 60 = 28.67568 → whole minutes: 28 0.67568 × 60 = 40.54 seconds So GPSLatitude becomes 51, 28, 40.54 and GPSLatitudeRef becomes N. The longitude is negative in decimal, and that negative sign is the part people lose: 0.001545 × 60 = 0.0927 → whole minutes: 0 0.0927 × 60 = 5.56 seconds GPSLongitude becomes 0, 0, 5.56, positive, and the west of Greenwich part is carried entirely by GPSLongitudeRef, which holds the single character W. Strip that one-byte tag and the photo claims a spot in the eastern hemisphere. It is the most common way a geotag ends up pointing at the wrong side of the world. The same tags, read back out of a real photo. How a photo gets geotagged There are only two routes, and which one you need depends entirely on whether the location was recorded at the moment of capture. At capture. A phone with location services enabled writes the GPS tags as it saves the file. So does a camera with built-in GPS, or one paired with a phone or a separate GPS logger. Nothing else is required, because the coordinates are in the file from the start. Afterwards. If location was switched off, if the camera has no GPS, or if the tags were stripped somewhere along the way, the coordinates can be written in later. This is the ordinary case for anyone shooting on a DSLR, and for any photo that has already been through a platform that removes metadata. You pick the point on a map and add the coordinates yourself; the tags written are exactly the ones in the table above. Setting a location on a photo that never had one. If you want the process rather than the concept, the step-by-step guide to geotagging photos covers it start to finish. Does geotagging help your Google Business Profile? It deserves a straight answer rather than the one the SEO industry has repeated since 2022. The claim is that uploading geotagged photos to a Google Business Profile tells Google where your business operates and lifts your local ranking. It was tested properly in 2025. An agency ran a 10-week controlled study across 27 lawn care businesses: five weeks of normal posting, then five weeks of the same schedule with coordinates added, and published the result in March 2025. Of seven metrics, one improved: "near me" queries in the areas that were tagged. Four of the rest got worse. So: geotagging is not a ranking lever, and any page still promising that it is has not looked at the evidence. What geotagging genuinely does is quieter and more durable. It keeps a verifiable record of where an image was made. For a contractor documenting a job site, an inspector filing a report, or an estate agent with four hundred listing photos, that record is the point. The location is proof, not a ranking signal. What survives an upload A geotag lives in the file, which means it only travels as far as the file does intact. Plenty of platforms strip the location out on upload. The visible picture survives, the GPS block does not. The usual explanation is wrong, and worth correcting. Stripping is not a side effect of compression: Google Photos and Flickr both re-compress what you upload and keep the metadata intact, while other services discard it from files they barely touch. Whether your location survives is a policy decision made by each platform, not a technical consequence of resizing. Which means you cannot reason it out from how squashed the photo looks. You have to check. So do not assume a photo still carries its location because it did when it left your phone, and do not assume one you downloaded has been scrubbed. Looking takes about ten seconds. How to check whether a photo is geotagged Open the photo in a tool that reads the EXIF block and look for the tags in the table above. If GPSLatitude and GPSLatitudeRef are present, the photo knows where it was taken; if the GPS section is empty, it does not, and no amount of folder naming will change that. You can open the photo in our EXIF viewer to see the full tag list for any image. Whatever you find, it can be changed. A missing location can be written in; one you would rather not publish, on a photo of your own home say, can be stripped back out. Same tags, opposite directions.

To geotag photos, you write a latitude and a longitude into the image file's own EXIF metadata, so the coordinates travel inside the picture instead of in a caption, a folder name or a spreadsheet. How to geotag photos comes down to four steps: get the coordinates, open the photo in something that can write EXIF, write the location, and read it back to check it landed. That last step is the one almost everyone skips, and it catches the two failures further down: a location that never reached the file at all, and a location that reached it pointing at the wrong side of the world. How to geotag photos in four steps Find the latitude and longitude of the spot where the photo was taken. Open the photo in an editor that can write location data. Set the point on a map, then write it into the file. Read the file back and confirm the location is there. Step one is a map lookup. Step two rules out most of what is already on your computer: a phone gallery and the Windows file details panel will both happily show you a location, but neither one writes a new one. Step three is where the location is created. Pick the point on a map and write the coordinates into the file, and you get back a copy of the photo carrying its location. Step three: the point you drop on the map becomes the coordinate pair that gets written. What actually gets written into the file Here is the same photo from that screenshot, opened afterwards in a metadata viewer. This is what "geotagged" looks like from the inside: The location fields of a geotagged photo, with the plain decimal version at the bottom. The bottom two rows are the coordinates as you would type them: 40.7 and -73.9. The rows above are how the photo actually stores them, and two differences matter. The first is that the decimal gets broken up. 40.7 is filed as 40, 42, 0: 40 degrees, 42 minutes, 0 seconds. That is a format change and nothing is lost in it. The second one is the one that bites. The minus sign is gone. The stored longitude is a positive 73, 54, 0, and the "west" half of -73.9 sits in a separate field of its own: GPSLatitude and GPSLongitude hold the distance from the equator and from Greenwich, always as positive numbers. GPSLatitudeRef and GPSLongitudeRef hold one letter each, N or S, E or W. These are the only things in the whole file that say which side of the equator and which side of Greenwich you were standing on. GPSAltitude and GPSAltitudeRef work the same way for height. The height is stored as a plain positive number, so that one flag is the only thing separating a rooftop from a basement. Every location field a photo can carry is listed in the ExifTool GPS reference, and the field-by-field walkthrough is in what geotagging writes into a photo. Why coordinates land in the wrong hemisphere Write that same pair of coordinates into a photo, leave out those two one-letter fields, and read it back. You get this: GPSLatitude : 40 deg 42' 0.00" GPSLongitude : 73 deg 54' 0.00" GPSPosition : 40 deg 42' 0.00", 73 deg 54' 0.00" The numbers are right and the N and the W are simply missing. Nothing left in the photo records that the longitude was meant to be west. The file still reports a location and still looks geotagged, so the mistake survives every check except the one that puts the pin on a map. This is what people are hitting when a correct coordinate produces a pin in the wrong country. It usually starts with a signed decimal pasted straight off a map into a tool that never splits it into a number and a direction. At capture, or added afterwards A phone with location services turned on writes the location as it saves the photo, and so does a camera with GPS built in or paired to a logger. Nothing else is needed; the coordinates are there from the first save. Everything else is the second route: a camera with no GPS receiver, a shot taken with location switched off, a file that has already been through a service that strips metadata, or a scan of an old print. All of those arrive with the location empty, and it has to be written in afterwards. That is the case the four steps above describe. What survives an upload A location lives inside the file, so it only travels as far as the file travels intact. The IPTC, the standards body behind photo metadata, tested sixteen image-sharing and file-sharing services in a round of checks in Spring 2019. The pattern it found: What happened to photo metadata on each service, IPTC test round, Spring 2019 ServiceWhat the test foundWhat that means for your location Instagram, TwitterAll metadata strippedThe location does not survive the upload Pexels, Pixabay, UnsplashStripped from downloaded filesAnyone downloading your photo gets no location FlickrCamera data kept on downloadThe location generally comes back with the file Google PhotosCamera data kept on downloadThe location generally comes back with the file Dropbox, OneDriveOriginal file preservedYou get back exactly what you put in That round is old and IPTC has not published a newer social-media one, so read it as the shape of the problem rather than today's exact scoreboard. The working rule survives either way: keep your geotagged original somewhere you control, and never assume a file that has been through somebody else's server still carries its location. The reasoning runs backwards too. When a photo is going somewhere public and the location is nobody's business, take the coordinates back out before it leaves. Checking the coordinates are really in the file This is step four and it takes about ten seconds. Open the finished photo in a metadata reader and look at the location fields. If the latitude and its one-letter direction are both sitting there, the location is genuinely in the file and will travel with it. If that section is empty, nothing was written, whatever the editing app showed you on screen. You can read a photo's location fields back without installing anything. Check the direction letters, not just the numbers. A latitude with no N or S beside it is the failure from earlier, and it looks entirely correct until something tries to map it. If you would rather work from a desktop than a browser, the Windows and Mac options are set out here, including which ones can write a location and which can only display one.